Island Time
Our retirement on Island Time as liveaboards.
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Martinique 2010 We left St. Lucia for Martinique with Native Dancer in mid April. The winds were light and the seas were mild and we had a wonderful sail to Ste. Anne on the south west end of Martinique. We arrived mid afternoon in Ste Anne and needed to go to Marin to check in. It was a very long dinghy ride of about 3 miles and when we get there the Doanes (customs) was closed; they are only open in the morning. While passing the gas dock at Marin we ran into Zephyr Zest with Andy and Jo aboard. We last saw them in Trinidad in 2009. So the next day we decided to take a taxi into Marin. After wandering around Ste Anne (it's not a big town) asking about a bus to Marin (very few speak any English) we finally found a public taxi (like a bus) that went to Marin. After a side trip into the country side we made it to the town center in Le Marin and the bus driver said “ici ici” – meaning get off “here”. My high school French comes back a little. The bus ride was only 1.25 euros. We made our way down to the water front where the Doanes is located. After checking in we had lunch at the marina and enjoyed the French beer Lorraine.
Ste. Anne is small seaside town popular with tourists and cruisers alike.
The dinghy docks are fantastic in Martinique. All the towns have long fixed docks with rings to lock your boat to and ladders to climb onto the dock. We would go into the village to Bobo’s on the second street for internet connection. As with most of the natives we met his English was limited (with my French even more limited) but we managed to get the meals we ordered and get connected to the internet. Other restaurants along the waterfront also had internet connections where we could have a beer in the afternoon and check our e-mail. One could also sit in the town square and get free internet from the town offices that are next door. There is one restaurant highly recommended in the cruising guide “le Sud” on the second street. The owner speaks very good English. We strolled by the restaurant one afternoon and decided to check out the restaurant for dinner. The Owner was there and we asked about reservations – she laughed and said after what has happened no flights into Martinique so no tourists. The four of us gasped and thought oh no another terrorist attack but no the volcanic eruption in Iceland had stopped the flights. We did go to dinner there and it was wonderful. The salad was great (I’d go back just to have the salad). Among other things it had warm cheese with kiwi on a bed of greens. Both Patti and I had this salad and we both loved it.
All the streets are very narrow and many of them have a deep gutter on the side so parking the car can be a challenge.
Along with Gary and Patti on Native Dancer we rented a car for two days to tour the island. The first day we went to Fort de France the capital of Martinique. We strolled around town and found a little cafe on the second floor of a building on a side street. The cafe was called the tea garden although we had beer and I didn’t see a garden.
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