Florida, 2007 |
Jan. 24, 2007 |
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We returned to the boat on
January 9. We rented a car and spent three days provisioning
the boat for our trip. We filled the freezer with meat, the
spaces behind the settee with canned goods and the space under
the settee with beer, soda and wine.
John assembled the deck box
(that he had made at home over Christmas). The deck box is for
our life raft that we had in the aft cabin. Now it’s out of the
way. We left the marina on Sunday, January 14 and anchored
south of St. Augustine.
The following day we arrived
in Daytona Beach where we decided to stay at a marina and have
preventative maintenance work on the engine. We wanted to
retorque the head, have the valves adjusted and add new
antifreeze. For you NASCAR fans, we were told that the slip we
were in is the one used by Jeff Gordan during the Daytona 500.
Apparently Jeff owns one of the condo’s adjacent to the marina.
Daytona has a great bus system. We each got a three day pass
for six dollars and were able to travel all over Daytona and the
adjoining cities. After five days we moved on. As race car
season was approaching we had to give up our slip for the 100
footers who were coming for the races. Apparently, the marina
costs quadruple for race season.
We
continued our trip south and soon entered the Indian River where
we have our favorite traveling companions, the dolphins. They
swim along next to the boat. We had the same dolphin for over a
half hour swimming with us. We could tell it was the same
animal as it had a distinctive notch in its fin. We anchored in
Cocoa Beach for the night and then moved on to Vero Beach where
we joined Idunno. The municipal marina maintains moorings but
requires rafting so we rafted with Idunno and a third boat. We
will stay in Vero until the weather improves so we can plan our
crossing. Vero is a great place to wait as it has free bus
service around town. |
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Back to the Bahamas |
Feb. 27, 2007 |
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Jan 28, 2007 - Vero Breach, FL
We are currently in Vero Beach (aka Velcro Beach), Florida
awaiting a weather window to cross. Looks like next weeekend may
work but the cold fronts are moving through every two-three
days. Gulfstream has 12-15 ft waves today due to the north wind.
We will probably go to Lake Worth at the end of the week to
stage for the crossing. Ideally, you want two days of south
wind. One day for the seas to lay down and the second for the
crossing.
Vero is very nice with free bus service from the municipal
marina to downtown. Typical Florida town with strip malls and
funky shops. The ocean is a short walk away. We are rafted on a
mooring with our friends on I Dunno a Tatosh 42. We met them
last year in the Bahamas and they are going again. Originally
they planned on going to Trinidad but have some fuel tank
problems and are not going. We still plan on it but will make
the final decision in Georgetown.
We stayed in Vero for 16 days waiting for weather. Vero is a
great place to wait as shopping, the beach and not to forget the
cruisers breakfast and sundowner parties. We dinghied to the
Riverview to watch the Super Bowl with several other cruisers.
Feb 8, 2007 – Lake Worth, FL
We are leaving from Lake Worth tomorrow 2/9 headed for West End
on Grand Bahama Island maybe going as far as Grear Stirrup in
the Berrys if the weather holds. We will have email via Winlink
John
kb1kyu@winlink.org
Genie
kb1kyv@winlink.org
We will check these addresses daily. See you in June. Our plans
are to go as far as Trinidad.
Feb 10, 2007 – Bahamas, Grand Bahama
Our crossing was uneventful. We stayed at the Old Bahama Bay
Marina for the night where the manager had a cocktail party. We
cruisers are always up for freebies.
With Idunno we headed to Nassau for a 22 hour overnight sail.
The stars were magnificent. There were cruise ships all night
long to keep us company. There are lit up like white lighted
Christmas trees and it was difficult to find those little red or
green running lights so we could tell which way they were
traveling.
We stayed anchored in Nassau for three nights while we waited
for a cold front to pass. We did a little shopping and had a
sundowner party on Seaduction who we had met in Annapolis.
Wednesday, Feb 14
We left Nassau for Norman Cay in the Exumas. We had a great
sail all the way to Norman. Even less of the airplane remains
in the water to the east of the main part of the island. We had
a great Valentine dinner on Idunno.
Thursday, Feb 15
The next day we motor sailed to Cambridge Cay in the Exuma Land
and Sea Park. New park moorings were in place so we picked up a
mooring. We stayed at the Cambridge Cay for four days to sit
our two fronts. The latter of the two fronts had winds
approaching 40 knots – I was glad we were on a mooring. Between
fronts we had sundowner parties and a party on the beach with
the entire anchorage invited. This area is absolutely
beautiful, expanses of sand beaches between coral outcrops.
Massive sand bars. We went snorkeling at the Sea Aquarium off
O’Brien Cay. This feature is touted as a miniature wall dive.
The fish are plentiful and very colorful. The highlights of the
trip were the two Queen Angel fish and a triggerfish.
Friday, Feb 16 - Southern Exumas
We sailed from Cambridge Cay over the banks to Big Majors near
Staniel Cay. The pigs are still at the beach waiting for
handouts. The day we arrived at Staniel the local school was
holding a benefit bar-b-que. We had a wonderful steak meal on
the town beach for $12. We spent the following afternoon in
Staniel Cay Yacht Club using their free wifi.
The next stop was Black Point where we did our laundry at the
best launder mat in the Exumas. Of course we went to Loraine’s
for dinner. I had conch and John had fish – wonderful as
usual. Before we left the next morning we got a loaf of
Lorraine’s mother’s famous coconut bread. Swirls of coconut are
cooked into the bread. We anchored the next night around the
point from Black Point settlement to get some wind protection.
There was a beautiful white sand beach (deserted of course).
Sunday Feb 25 - Georgetown
The following day we left for Georgetown at 0600. We left the
banks at Galliot Cut and sailed through Exuma Sound to
Georgetown, about 40 miles. The wind was on our left back
quarter so we had a nice downwind run in about 15 knots of
wind.
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We stayed in Vero for 16 days waiting for
weather. Vero is a great place to wait as shopping, the beach
and not to forget the cruisers breakfast and sundowner parties.
We dinghied to the Riverview to watch the Super Bowl with
several other cruisers.
Our crossing was uneventful. We stayed at the Old Bahama Bay
Marina for the night where the manager had a cocktail party. We
cruisers are always up for freebies.
With Idunno we headed to Nassau for a 22 hour overnight sail.
The stars were magnificent. There were cruise ships all night
long to keep us company. There are lit up like white lighted
Christmas trees and it was difficult to find those little red or
green running lights so we could tell which way they were
traveling.
We stayed anchored in Nassau for three nights while we waited
for a cold front to pass. We did a little shopping and had a
sundowner party on Seaduction who we had met in Annapolis.
Wednesday, February 14, we left Nassau for Norman Cay in the
Exumas. We had a great sail all the way to Norman. Even less
of the airplane remains in the water to the east of the main
part of the island. We had a great Valentine dinner on Idunno.
The next day we motor sailed to Cambridge Cay in the Exuma Land
and Sea Park. New park moorings were in place so we picked up a
mooring. We stayed at the Cambridge Cay for four days to sit
our two fronts. The latter of the two fronts had winds
approaching 40 knots - I was glad we were on a mooring. Between
fronts we had sundowner parties and a party on the beach with
the entire anchorage invited. This area is absolutely
beautiful, expanses of sand beaches between coral outcrops.
Massive sand
bars. We went snorkeling at the Sea Aquarium off O'Brien Cay.
This feature is touted as a miniature wall dive. The fish are
plentiful and very colorful. The highlights of the trip were
the two Queen Angel fish and a triggerfish.
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Southern Exumas |
Mar. 28, 2007 |
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We
sailed from Cambridge Cay over the banks to Big Majors near
Staniel Cay. The pigs are still at the beach waiting for
handouts. The day we arrived at Staniel the local school was
holding a benefit bar-b-que. We had a wonderful steak meal on
the town beach for $12. We spent the following afternoon in
Staniel Cay Yacht Club using their free wifi.
The next stop was Black Point where we did our laundry at the
best launder mat in the Exumas. Of course we went to Loraine's
for dinner. I had conch and John had fish - wonderful as
usual. Before we left the next morning we got a loaf of
Lorraine's mother's famous coconut bread. Swirls of coconut are
cooked into the bread. We anchored the next night around the
point from Black Point settlement to get some wind protection.
There was a beautiful white sand beach (deserted of course).
The following
day we left for Georgetown at 0600. We left the banks at
Galliot Cut and sailed through Exuma Sound to Georgetown, abour
40 miles. The wind was on our left back quarter so we had a
nice downwind run in about 15 knots of wind.
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We
arrived in Georgetown in time for the cruisers regatta. The
regatta lasted ten days and was comprised of games, sporting
events, entertainment and boat races. (Summer camp for
adults.) The first night had the opening ceremonies with a pet
parade where the categories included dogs, non-dogs (cats and a
crab) and other. What is other? Well we had a rare spotted
haggis (A guy with spotted clothes on all fours being led around
on a leash). There was a best pirate costume contest (this
year's
theme). The winner looked just like Johnny Depp. The musical
portion of the evening included the appearance of the Blues
Brothers, the California Raisons and Elvis. All this followed
by a pirate's ball.
John and I participated in the Coconut Challenge. We were on
separate teams of four people for the coconut challenge. The
challenge was comprised of four events. The first and wettest
event involved collecting floating coconuts in the water using
dinghies. The dinghies were propelled by fin power. Each
person had one swim fin as a paddle to be used with your hand -
all feet to stay in the boat. This is where big feet help i.e.
large fins. Our friend Linda can leave her fins at home. We
were
not allowed to steal coconuts from another boat but if they
floated out by themselves they were fair game - that's where the
buckets came into play - pouring water into other boats. The
second contest was bowling with coconuts. For each Kalik bottle
knocked over in four minutes you got a point. Rolling the
coconut was not an option as they do not roll straight, so you
had to throw them at the bottle. The third game was to throw
the coconut through a tire. Again one point was earned for each
successful throw in four minutes. The last coconut contest was
coconut basketball. In the end my team came in almost last.
John's team was in the middle of the 24 teams.
The next event that we participated in was the scavenger hunt.
We had a team of six and had to find various items on Stocking
Island and in Georgetown itself across the harbor. (The boat
with the largest dinghy motor went to town.) Some of the items
we had to find were duct tape, a pirate movie, cars movie,
February pilot chart of the Caribbean, count the number of
boards on Queen Anne's dock, a canvas bucket, a cold Kalik beer
(for the judges), and expired flares (the oldest flares got
extra
points - the oldest flares were from 1974! - people actually had
these on their boats). We also needed a brownie at least 1" x
1" so I spent the time on the boat baking brownies (if our fiend
Nile was there that would be his job). We did well but didn't
finish in the top three.
The big event was the around Stocking Island boat race - about
18 miles. We sailed on Idunno with Mike and June and Bob and
Carol from Time Enough. The wind was blowing 15 knots with good
sized waves. We had a great race and won the baking contest.
Yes baking. In addition for prizes for winning the race, prizes
were given for the best baked item prepared underway, biggest
fish caught while sailing and the best picture taken. We won
the baking contest with a Crème Brule (our friend Linda's
favorite).
Bob did a great job separating eggs with a 20 degree heal on
the boat. We even browned the sugar on top with a torch. Carol
created a great presentation with palmetto leaves arranged
around the serving dish.
The other events that were held throughout the week included
beach golf, tennis, Texas hold'em, bocce ball, bridge, small
boat races, in the harbor boat race, softball, fun volleyball,
regulation volleyball and sand sculpture.
The last night of the regatta was the variety show with singing,
instrumentals, comedy skits and a conch horn serenade. As they
say - a great time was had by all.
The regatta had all the organized games. Of course any
gathering of cruisers will have the requisite sundowner parties
and potlucks on the beach. John and I went to several
southbound cruisers meetings. This is where we met other
cruisers who are also heading south to Trinidad and other parts
south. The day after the regatta ended we headed for Thompson
Bay on Long Island.
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Long Island |
Mar. 28, 2007 |
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Long
Island is south and east of Georgetown. We had a great sail for
the 40 miles to Thompson Bay. We finally sailed south of the
Tropic of Cancer which was a milestone for us. Long Island
seems to have a slightly different climate than the Exumas. It
seems greener and better able to support some agriculture. We
saw many banana trees. Much of the agriculture is pothole
farming where natural or manmade holes in the rock filled with
fertile soil are used for growing vegetables. We saw an
advertisement
for a corn festival next month.
We rented a car with Idunno and traveled the island from one end
to the other. In Clarence Town (south end) we had lunch at a
local Bahamian restaurant. My meal had a side dish of plantains
- very good. In Clarence Town we visited an old Catholic church
built by Father Jerome. The church has twin spires that can be
seen for miles as it sits on a high hill. He also built the
older Anglican church in town (before his conversion to
Catholicism) which also sits on an adjacent hill. The church
has a great view of the harbor. The harbor itself is formed by
reefs and small islands with one narrow entrance.
The north end of the island has a monument to Christopher
Columbus up on Cape Santa Maria, a bluff over looking the ocean
- excellent views.
One day we dinghied over to a cave and did a little spelunking.
There were eight of us each with a flash light and it was still
very dark. There was one section of the cave where it was open
at the top allowing sunlight to infiltrate and trees were
growing inside the cave up through the hole - it was very
interesting. Of course there were many bats but they were all
sleeping. John saw one crab, and we were told there were
tarantulas in there but we didn't see any (whew).
One night the local Bahamian restaurant had a buffet ($10), and
we had about 30 cruisers. As usual with any gathering of
cruisers we had a potluck on the beach one night. |
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Provo, Turks and Caicos |
Mar. 28, 2007 |
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The trip
from Long Island to Provo was not one of our better sails. We
set out with about six boats for the 240 mile trek (about 40
hours) to the Caicos Banks. We planned the trip in one
continuous sail as the weather window was small otherwise we
could have jumped island to island. The wind was supposed to
start SE and then switch to the NE so it would be a good sail.
There were supposed to be scattered squalls when the front
passed but with the radar we could avoid them. Well, as to be
expected
the weather did not cooperate. We had a terrible crossing. The
first day wind did not switch to the north when predicted so we
were into the wind the first day and then we had numerous
squalls at night. When the pre-frontal trough passed we had a
massive squall with 40 knot winds. The next day the wind did
switch north and then died. The wind picked up later in the
night along with more squalls but then we had to slow down so we
didn't get to the Caicos banks until day light. When the sun
came
up all the boats crossed the banks to Sapodilla Bay in Provo (Providenciales).
We have been anchored here for five days (so far) waiting for
weather.
During the crossing we also had engine problems. John had to
replace the intake impeller on the engine the first day and then
replace the fuel filter and fix a plugged fuel line the second
day (the rough water stirred up the junk from the fuel tank).
The third day (at harbor at least) he fixed a broken wire on the
alternator.
Sapodilla Bay is not close to any facilities. The bay has a
nice sand beach and beach front homes. The customs check-in is
around a point at the government dock.
We rented a car one day for a sightseeing trip. Most of the
island is developed with resorts. We did go to the local conch
farm where conch is raised for sale to the states. The farm was
actually started by a fellow from Mystic, CT. The farm has an
inventory of 5.5 million conch. The life cycle of the conch
starts with an egg mass with 500,000 eggs which are colleted by
divers, and the egg masses are brought to the hatchery. The
eggs hatch to larvae and after 22 days to free swimming veligers
(baby conch). After 22 days the conch are transferred to the
metamorphosis facility where they change from free swimming
larvae to bottom dwelling baby conch. During the free swimming
stage the conch are fed liquid algae. After metamorphosis the
baby conch starts growing their shells. As the conchs grow they
move to the on shore nursery for 1 year olds (2-4 cm) to 3 year
olds (6 cm). The conch are fed pelletized algae. Once the
conch are about 6 cm they are transferred to the Sub-sea
pastures
(fenced pens in the sea). Growth to adulthood takes about 2
more years. The fenced pens not only keep the conch from
escaping it also protects them from predators (lobsters, sting
rays, tulip shells, crabs, octopus, turtles and porcupine
fish). The sea bed for the conch farm is leased from the
government and in lieu of cash the farm releases 1 million conch
to the environment per year. Not only are adult conch marketed
so are 1-3 year old conch sold as ceviche appetizers. The end
of our tour
included hands on look at two adult conch, Sally and Jerry.
When our tour guide picked up the conch they actually came out
of their shell. About 1 in 10,000 conch will grow a pearl. The
farm had some examples of the beautiful pink pearl.
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Provo to Luperon |
Apr. 12, 2007 |
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My last
posting described our problematic crossing to Provo - however I
neglected to mention the hi-light of the evening sail. The
micro-organisms in the water were phosphorescent. In the
churned up white water from the boat action there was sparkling
blue flashes of light.
We finally left Provo for So. Caicos across the banks. It was a
50 mile trip with numerous coral heads to dodge about halfway
across. We were heading east into an easterly trade which was
not condusive to sailing. (It was not the best day to cross but
we were tired of Provo.) As we did not leave at the crack of
dawn we had to anchor on the west side of Long Cay with a short
hop around Long Cay the next day into Cockburn Harbor (South
Caicos). As we were anchoring in the lee of Lang Cay I was
on the bow and then this thing comes flying past my head and
lands on the deck. It was a squid and it was pumping out ink
all over the deck. What a mess. As I threw the squid back into
the water you could see the ink trail behind it as it swam
away. The ink stained the deck and I could not get it out with
any of the products we purchased in the states. However a
product called Krazy Klean that we bought at Top II Bottom in
Georgetown worked great. Who ever heard of flying squid?
South Caicos has the clearest water that we have seen so far.
We were anchored in 10 feet of water and could see every detail
of the bottom. The town itself was disappointing. There was
not much activity with few things of interest to see. We did
have a nice chicken lunch at a local restaurant.
Once the weather forecast improved for a passage to Luperon we
set out for Great Sand Cay in the Turks where we stayed
overnight. What a beautiful island (uninhabited). Wonderful
sand beach on the lee side and great beach combing on the
windward side. When shelling with Marcia from Non-linear and
Jane from Cheetah II. The island has a light on it but
typically it was non operable. Apparently the lights in Turks
and Caicos are frequently vandalized. This light was missing
its solar panels.
We stayed overnight at the island and left at 5 pm on Wednesday
for arrival first thing in the am at Luperon, a 77 nm trip. We
had a perfect sail - 10-15 knots on a close reach and a full
moon. We had all our sails out and were doing 5-6 knots. Only
problem was that our auto-pilot died and we had to hand steer
all night.
We
arrived at Luperon at 8 am on Thursday, April 5 and had handy
Andy lead us into the harbor. After anchoring I noticed another
sea creature on the deck. This time it was a flying fish.
Our first day in port we paid $25 for immigration and an $11
port fee at the office at the government dock. Then we had to
go back to the boat and wait for the agriculture officer and pet
officer to come to the boat. The agriculture officer instructed
us to place our foreign (imported) trash in the round barrel on
the dock and the trash from Luperon in the square container - $
10 please. (At night they set fire to both containers which are
next to each other on the dock - what's the point???).
The pet inspector said any pets, and we said no, and he said
$10 please. Later that day another official came to the boat,
and we had to acquire tourist cards for each of us, $ 20 please.
Luperon is a vibrant town although quite poor. The people are
out in the streets socializing. All the children say Allo as we
pass. People are cutting up fish in the street. Scooters are
the main form of transportation and zip around sometimes with
three people on them. Of course there are cars and horses and
donkeys.
That first night we went to Capt. Steve's for dinner. Steve is
an ex-Patriot.
Friday, the second day, I went to the falls with the other
cruisers. John stayed on the boat to work on the autopilot.
Sea U Manana had a spare autopilot computer that we brought from
him.
The falls had 27 levels but we only did the first seven. The
stream carved a narrow channel through the rock. So the channel
had towering cliffs on each side of the stream. There are a
series of falls along the stream. We climbed up the falls
through the water. Rock climbing with water rushing against
you. We had three strong guides who helped us up the falls.
Could not have made it without them. One section of the stream
between the falls was flowing so swiftly that we had a rope to
pull
ourselves along. Going down it was like water slides and the
last one we had to jump off a cliff into the pool below. They
actually made us wear helmets and life vests. My arms and legs
are tired and sore. Part of the trip to the falls was suppose
to be lunch at a native restaurant but as it was Good Friday the
restaurants were closed so we were invited into a private home
for lunch. We had fish (that's all that is served on Good
Friday), salad (lettuce, corn and cucumbers with lemon
dressing),
a beet, egg and potato salad, and a bean (looked like lima
beans) and squash soup type dish served over rice. For desert
we had a traditional Easter dessert comprised of sweetened
condensed milk, coconut, chocolate, and cinnamon sticks cooked
in a large kettle over a wood fire in the back of the house.
Tasty but very sweet.
Tomorrow pig roast at yacht club.
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Life in Luperon |
Apr. 30, 2007 |
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April 8, 2007 - Easter Sunday. We went to
Miramar for Easter Services. The service was held at a Dutch
owned retreat in the mountains and the service participants were
mainly cruisers. The views from the retreat were spectacular of
both the mountains and the coast. We could see Haiti in the
distance. The retreat had a fabulous pre-breakfast buffet
comprised of fruits and sweet breads. The breakfast buffet was
a large spread with a large selection of meats, salads, pastas
and vegetables.
April 9, 2007 - Spent the day exploring Luperon. Left my
laundry in town where it would be washed, dried and folded for
me for 90 pesos ($3.00) for 15 lbs. A pick-up truck drives
through town daily selling fruits and vegetables out the back.
Got some delicious pineapple. One of the streets had a
concrete divider about three feet high with flowers planted in
the middle. The flowers won't last long as the goats kept
jumping up onto the divider to eat the flowers - no matter how
many times they were chased away they returned. That evening we
had a pot luck at the yacht club.
April 10, 2007 - We hired a driver to take us (three couples) to
Santiago. Driving in the DR and especially the city is not for
the faint of heart. The most important piece of equipment on
the vehicle is the horn! As we drive the narrow roads the horn
is blaring so the donkeys, scooters ect. are forewarned that we
are coming through. In Santiago the bold get thru the
intersections. The city was interesting with its open air
markets and food vendors on the corners. The fruit stands were
everywhere. On the way back to Luperon the taxi broke down but
the garage got us running in no time.
April 11, 2007 - Wednesday night is movie night. We went to a
local restaurant for dinner and a movie. We had Winerschnitzel
(sp?). The food was great but the movie was bad - the Breakup.
The most amusing thing about the movie was the English subtitles
which were shown although the movie was in English. Who ever
did the subtitles - English was not their first language. We
had the diamond table for dining room table. We had rite for
right. But best of all the subtitles talked about gay night
instead of game night.
April 12, 2007 - Thursday. The four women took a cab to Imbert
for the flea market. A lot of clothes and shoes. I got a new
top for 40 pesos ($ 1.30).
April 13, 2007 - Friday we checked out with the commandant. The
captains had to go to his office and get our despacios to leave
Luperon - $ 20.00. We had one last swim and drink at the yacht
club and left Luperon at 5:00 pm. And headed for Puerto Rico.
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Luperon to Mayaguez, Puerto Rico,
4/19-4/21 |
Apr. 30, 2007 |
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We are in
Mayaguez, Puerto Rico arriving at 1 pm today (Saturday 4/21).
We left Luperon, Dominican Republic on Thursday, 4/19, at 6 pm
and had a safe passage down the northern DR coast and then
across the Mona Passage. Winds were light but the Mona had
choppy seas from all directions which it is famous for. Our
auto pilot broke so we had to hand steer for the 43 hrs yuck.
We plan on spending abut 1-2 weeks transiting the southern PR
coast to the Spanish Virgin Islands then US and British VI. We
will probably proceed down island quickly as weather permits.
We have reservations for a haulout in Trinidad for June 15 and
will leave Island Time on the hard for Hurricane season and on
until after the new year when we will return to cruise the
windward and leeward islands for the winter of 2008. We will
return Island Time back to the US during the winter of 2009.
We will fly back to Vt around June 17.
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Puerto Rico, 4/30 |
Apr. 30, 2007 |
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We arrived in Puerto Rico about 44 hours after we left Luperon,
DR. We were traveling with NonLinear and Cheetah II. The wind
was E to SE so was pretty much on the nose all the way. So we
motor sailed the entire way. The Mona Passage was relatively
calm and, therefore, we had an uneventful crossing. We passed
several sailboats traveling north during the second evening.
We entered Mayaguez and anchored near the ferry dock. There was
not a good place to land the dinghies and we had to tie up to
the ferry dock. We were the only boats checking in on Sunday.
Contrary to some countries US officials want all crew members in
check in - not just the captain. Although the cruising guides
say that we are only to enter the country in ports with
immigration officials, the officials told us that most of the
cruisers go to Boqueron and take a taxi to Mayaquez to check in.
The next day we traveled the short distance to Boqueron, a
resort town. We spent a week in Boqueron enjoying the city. We
took a one day trip back to Mayaquez where we went to the
Tropical Agricultural Research Station that was originally part
of a large plantation from the 1800's. Many species of tropical
plants from all over the world are on display. The garden is
part of the University of Puerto Rico and is administered by the
USDA. In downtown Mayaquez is an elegant plaza with a statute
honoring Christopher Columbus.
We headed for Ponce on the central south coast with an overnight
stop at Gilligan's Island (Cayos de Cana Gorda). In Ponce we
took a slip at the Ponce Yacht and Fishing Club for week to
spend time exploring inland. With Cheetah II and NonLinear we
rented a car for one week. We did a three day trip around the
island. Our first day was to drive to Fajardo on the east coast
and on to the El Yunque, the Caribbean National Forest, a rain
forest in the Luquillo Mountains. There are 240 species of
trees,150 species of ferns, 50 species of orchids and 137
species of land and aquatic animals. Our trip in the forest
included the LaCoca Falls along the road, and an hour hike to
the La Mina Falls. That night we stayed in a hotel near San
Juan.
The next day we spent in Old San Juan. We visited Castillo de
San Felipe del Morro and took a trolley ride around the old
city. In addition to the forts there are still portions of the
original wall that surrounded the city that are still intact.
The streets are very narrow and lined by beautiful structures
typical of Spanish architecture and in the pastel shades found
in the Caribbean. A distinguishing item on all the Spanish
homes that we noticed here and in the Dominican Republic is the
front door. Most of the doors are very ornate and made of wood
and none are identical. The streets are so narrow that the
power lines are run above the rooftops. The city has a free
trolley that runs around the city. That night we stayed in a
hotel in Arecibo.
Our third day we planned to see the Radiotelescopio de Arecibo
that is operated by Cornell University. This is the largest
radiotelescope in the world with a 1000 ft diameter spherical
reflector. But as luck would have it the facility would not
open to visitors until 12 and we got there at 9 so we moved on
to our next stop, the Parque de las Cavernas del Rio Camuy.
This a massive cavern within hugh sinkholes created by the river
Camuy that runs under the cavern. Large stalactites and
stalagmites are spread throughout the cavern. Our trip back to
Ponce included a section of narrow, curvy and steep mountain
roads. We got a great sampling of the mountain roadways!
Our last day with the car we toured Ponce and again experienced
the beautiful parks, fountains and Spanish architecture of the
area. |
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Ponce to St. Martin/Sint Maarten |
May. 23, 2007 |
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We left Ponce at midnight when the easterly trades are lighter
and headed east to Puerto Patillas. Puerto Patillas is a lovely
anchorage but it was very rolly from the swells that broke over
the reef to the east. We stayed here three nights waiting for
weather. Maribel and Pete on Paper Moon were anchored in
Salinas (west of Puerto Patillas) where they rented a car. On
their sightseeing trip they stopped at Puerto Patillas to have
lunch with us, and we ended up driving to San Juan. One night
we had a pot luck on shore with the other five boats anchored
here. We met two young men who had just graduated from college
and had apparently made some money playing poker so they bought
a sail boat (a Tartan 38) and sailed the Caribbean for a year
and were now headed back to the States to continue with their
lives. These guys never sailed before.
From Puerto Patillas we left in the morning and headed to Sun
Bay at Esperanza on the south side of Viequez. We picked up a
free public mooring. The anchorage was a bit rolly. Esperanza
is a beautiful little town with a brick walkway along the harbor
front. Of course they have the required harbor front bars.
From Esperanza along with Sol y Mar and Moon Sail we took a cab
to Isabel Secunda on the north side of the island. Of course we
had to try the harbor front bars on this side of the island.
We left Viequez and headed for St. Thomas. Fortunately, both
Puerto Rico and St. Thomas are associated with the US we did not
need to check in with Immigration. We anchored in the outer
harbor at Red Hook. The numerous ferries coming and going made
this anchorage very uncomfortable. So we had pizza at American
Harbor and did the laundry and went shopping first thing in the
morning and left Red Hook. We went across the sound and picked
up a mooring at Caneel Bay, St. John. Caneel bay was also
a little rolly due to the ferries that went by on their way to
Tortola.
We headed to BVI and checked in at Sopers Hole before heading
for the bight at Norman Island. We were being decadent in
picking up moorings instead of anchoring out like a cost
conscious cruiser. You could tell the charter boats when they
came in (other than the big Moorings on the sail cover) as at
least 2 and sometimes 4 people are on the bow to pick up the
mooring pennant. The really inexperienced charters make 2 or 3
tries at the mooring ball. There was one large cat drifting
towards us until
the hired captain came to the rescue and took over the
controls. We had chartered in this area many times and I'm sure
we looked just like these guys did.
From Norman we went to Marina Cay and stayed two days as John
had some maintenance to do on the engine. The engine has been
running a little hotter than usual. The happy hour at Marina
Cay featured Michael Bean, a one man band, doing a pirate themed
act. ARRRRG. It was very entertaining with a lot of audience
participation. For example, any audience participant that
answered pirate questions correctly or had a pirate toast that
they shared with the crowd got a free shot of rum. John got a
shot
of rum for being a dinghy captain.
We then headed for Leverick Bay, Gorda Sound, Virgin Gorda to
stage for our crossing to Sint Maarten. We met Sea Schell who
we last saw in Luperon and then Paper Moon arrived both of whom
were also staging to cross. While in Leverick we met Craig and
Andy from the Malletts Bay Boat Club, our home club in
Vermont.
While in Leverick Bay we went to the Friday night entertainment
at the resort that included a band and an appearance by the
Jumbies. The Jumbies are a native dance group who dance on
stilts. The group appeared to be a family with the height of
the stilts proportional to the height of the person. The kids
were on relatively short stilts with the adults on six foot
stilts.
The day before we left we took a dingy trip over to the Bitter
End Yacht Club and Resort. A very impressive resort. The
resort sprawls over a very large peninsula with several
restaurants, bars, pools, boat rentals, etc. The grounds are
well maintained and filled with many different varieties of
flowering shrubs.
On Monday, May 14, John along the three other captains took a
taxi to Spanish Town to clear out of the BVI's. That afternoon
at 2 pm we left for Sint Maarten in company with four other
boats.
Sint Maarten
We arrived in Sint Maarten at 7 am after an uneventful crossing
and anchored in the Baii (bay) to wait for the bridge opening.
We decided to go into Simpson Bay Lagoon from the Dutch side.
We checked in and made the 9:30 bridge opening into the Lagoon.
If you are going to the Lagoon you can check in on either the
French side, Marigot Bay ($8.50 for a month) or the Dutch side,
Simpson Bay ($ 10.00 for a week). We came in the Dutch side
with Sea Schell as the Dutch side has a bigger bridge and
channel but for boats our size it does not make any difference.
We anchored on the Dutch side near the end of the runway of the
airport. Fortunately not too many planes take off, mostly in
the afternoon. We are also anchored near Shrimpy's who has
free
wifi in the bar.
The Lagoon has 2 large marine stores on the Dutch side at the
extreme southeast end of the lagoon. The prices are better than
the states. The number of restaurants are too numerous to
name. Many of the restaurants have a happy hour on different
nights of the week. The Lady C, a floating boat restaurant, has
all you eat ribs for $11.00. There is a weekly publication that
lists the locations of the happy hours each night. The local
yacht club had a happy hour with $ 1.00 beers Friday night.
They are located next to the draw bridge so we can watch the
5:30 opening with all the yacht traffic (the bridge only opens
three times a day, 9:30 am, 11:30 am and 5:30 pm).
John worked on the engine again as the temperature was still a
little hot. He found some grass partially blocking the heat
exchanger. Hopefully this was the problem and the engine will
run at the correct temperature now.
Our last day in Sint Maarten we dinghied over to the French side
to Marigot where we had lunch in a French restaurant along the
dock. The enticement from the waiter was that they had poor
service but great food. That night we had sundowners with Sea
Schell as a good bye as they were staying another week to have
repairs done on their boat.
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We are in Bequia, the Grenadines. We
will be here for four or five days as a tropical wave is coming
through.
We are running short of time for our scheduled haul out in
Trinidad so we did the Leewards south of St. Martin in 7 days.
We will visit these islands for longer times next season or on
our way back in a couple of years.
Places we stayed along way.
St. Barts, Colombier Bay. This is a beautiful beach, no houses
(except Rockefellers); free mooring balls as long as you don't
go on a weekend when all the locals come out for a day at the
beach. The entire bay was owned by Rockefellers but they
donated it for a marine park. We did not check in so we did not
go to Gustavia. Great little town (been thee on a charter a few
years back). Outer anchorage is rolly. We met Paper Moon again
and left with them the following morning.
St. Kitts did not check in - anchored for night at south end of
island at White House Bay. Only goats and cows on shore.
Montserrat - did not check in - stayed north end at Rendezvous
Bay for one night (you cannot anchor at the south end because of
the active volcano). On our way to Montserrat we passed the
Kingdom of Redonda (a big rock). There is an actual king but
who it is depends on the courts to decide in England at the
moment.
We left the next day and attempted to go north around the island
to go down the windward side as the guide book suggests to get a
better sailing angle on Guadeloupe but the seas were too high
(the end of each island has higher wind and seas due to the
"island effect") so we turned around and Paper moon went back to
the anchorage, and we continued down the leeward side to
Guadeloupe. When traveling along the shore of the island you
need to be at least two miles out but you can still see the town
of Plymouth in ruins covered in ash. We did see smoke coming
out of the volcano.
Guadeloupe - Stopped in Deshaies just for the night. Deep
harbor need to get close to shore on sides or toward town to
find reasonable depths to anchor. The guide says immigration
only there in morning but other cruisers said there in pm.
Either way we missed them. Only stayed night and left next am
for Iles des Saintes and the little town of Le Bourg. What a
great place - we got there early enough to go ashore (still did
not check in as only staying one night and no place to check in
here). Went out to dinner but this is French so the restaurants
do not even open until 7 pm.
Dominica - We picked up a mooring in Roseau. We did not chick
in as only one night. This is the most rolly places ever been.
We picked up a mooring as the water stays deep up to the shore.
We were three hundred feet off shore and the water was still 100
feet deep. We encountered our first boat boy here. To stop
rolling we could have put out our stern anchor or tied to shore
to keep bow into swell but as we were leaving at 6 am did not
want to deal with dinghy - so we had a bad nights sleep.
This the last island in the Leewards
Note: The prevailing winds are east or south of east and range
from 15-25. We had moderate trades for our trip. The wind is
stronger as you approach the north end or south end of each
island and the seas also are bigger, especially mid day. As you
approach the south end of an island from the north the island
bends the wind direction so it is on your nose. We planned our
trip to anchor as far south on each island so that we could
cross the south end of each island as early in the day as
possible when the wind was lighter. The crossings between
islands averaged about 20 nm. As we approach the north end of
the next island the wind picks up but the island tends to bend
the wind direction so it is on your beam or behind you. The lee
side of the islands was a piece of cake and sometimes had to
motor, in fact on some islands the wind stopped and then
switched to an on shore breeze (from the west). Most of the
time we had good 15 -20 knot winds and had great sails. |
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